Anacortes Now

Anacortes was bustling on this busy day, humming with a Waterfront Festival, car shows, art tours, and tourists basking in a weekend of warmth. Now evening shadows grew as the day waned. What better way to finish this day than a visit to Cap Sante, I told myself.

It's not a long trail, and it's right in town. Having been set aside by townspeople when Anacortes was in its infancy, Cap Sante and its trails are a world apart from today's city life. Or maybe not.

I like to earn the view at the top, so I parked near the marina at Rotary Park, headed up through the disk golf course, past my old house, up 6th Street and then down 5th Street, saying hello to a former neighbor, then into the park at its northeast corner.

Just off the trail lies the remnants of the amphitheater where nearly a century ago Anacortesans watched tribal canoe races and boat parades. This evening had a more unusual treat, the "Lady Washington" under sail offshore. I could see it out near Hat Island, tacking on a track back to the marina for the night. Sailing ships fascinate me, the way they fly with the power of the wind, reminding us of an era long ago of rope and leather and wood and canvas.

The trail climbs up through ancient trees on the east side of the cape. I picked up a plastic cup someone had left alongside the trail, earning karma points. At the top I discarded it in the garbage bin and emerged into a crowded parking lot. Lady Washington was getting closer, and people were gathering to see it. I ran across the glacially smoothed rocks to get a better view. Passengers on the ship waved as they passed below the cape, but with no sails aloft, using its diesel engine. Oh well.

Sharing the hilltop with me were a young couple cheering on the ship, another man taking pictures of his mountain bike, two women in formal dresses heading to a wedding in town, and assorted others marveling at the view as they sat in their cars. Oh, and a raccoon pulling garbage out of the can, then towing it into the nearby brush to feed a growing family.

Seagulls and vultures circled above in the strong breezes rising up the western slope. Sunlight blazed on Guemes Channel, the sun approaching the top of Cypress Island.

Eventually I headed down the new trail on the west side, a gentle graveled path leading back to Rotary Park at the bottom near the marina.

Smoke. I smelled smoke -- that distinct smell of burning wood and brush. There was a large fire here three years ago that blazed through the grasses of this bald and scorched several trees. It couldn't be happening again. I followed my nose until I found the source: the mountain bike man had a small fire burning in the dry grassy meadow. Rather than confront him, I alerted authorities, and after a lengthy conversation with them to explain where I was, I saw the man riding his bike out of the meadow and down the trail. I ran to where the fire had been and found… wet scattered ashes.

I followed down the same trail and heard brush crunching not far away in the woods. I stopped. Another crunch. I turned to see a body moving through the woods, and then recognized it -- a mama deer. It broke a branch and ate the leaves. I relaxed.

I ended up at the gazebo at the south end of the Rotary Park trail, just before sunset. Sailboats rocked in the evening breeze, their halyards clanging. I skipped and danced along the paved path back to where I had started; the moon rose, and the sun finally said good night on this most precious day. Heading back to the marina, all hands on deck

Home to the harbor Directions: From Highway 20 entering Anacortes, take the R Avenue exit, and follow this road to 4th Street. Turn right, then turn right again on T Avenue to get to Rotary Park, or continue on 4th up to an actual 't' intersection. Turn right and stay on this road to the top of Cap Sante.

By Bus: Accessible by Skagit Transit 410 bus at 10th and Q; a short walk around the marina to Rotary Park.

By Bike: See above driving directions. Or park at the park and ride on March's Point and take the Tommy Thompson all the way to Cap Sante, avoiding traffic!

Accessibility: the Rotary Park trail is wide, flat, and paved the entire way. The trail to the top is steep and graveled. The view at the top is accessible by vehicle.